July 2014 :: bike west coast from Vancouver to San Francisco

Vancouver BC to San Francisco CA :: 22 days on a bike
July 2014

In July 2014, I rode 1550 miles (2500 km) along the Pacific coast. I started in Vancouver BC and finished in San Francisco. Aaron joined me in Astoria OR, and rode to Little River CA. The full posse: Amy, Joan, Mike, Myra, Reese, and Scott, joined us in Brookings OR, just across the CA border. In Washington, I visited friends in Seattle and rode around the Olympic Peninsula, with stops in Ferndale, Arlington, Seattle, Lacey, Quilcene, Port Angeles, Forks, Amanda Park, Grayland: approximately 750 miles and 31500 feet of elevation gain. In Oregon, we stopped in Astoria, Oceanside, Newport, Winchester Bay, Port Orford, and Brookings: approximately 375 miles and 21500 feet of elevation gain. In California, we stopped in Orick, Fortuna, Leggett, Little River, Fort Ross, San Anselmo, and home: approximately 475 miles and 29400 feet of elevation gain.

There was lots of pretty country on the route: forests, rivers, lakes, sounds, and the Pacific Ocean. Red cedar rain forest in Washington, mixed forest in Oregon, redwood forest in Northern California. Highlights included the rainforests of the Olympic Peninsula (sans actual rain), the myriad of lighthouses along the coast, the Avenue of the Giants redwoods, and the Mendocino-Sonoma coast. And, of course, good food almost everywhere.

We rode a well-paced 75 miles per day, which left the afternoons for sightseeing or napping. It was a "princess" tour. We stayed in hotels and ate in restaurants; no sleeping bags or campfires. It was easy and comfortable. And we avoided eating pizza entirely.

The tour was self-supported. For the Washington and Oregon segments, that meant carrying 20 pounds of extra kit, casual clothing, tools and spares. For the California segment, we borrowed a Honda Odyssey minivan from Noah and Karyn, as a transport and SAG vehicle. After loading it with our bags, ice water, snacks, spares, and tools, the posse drove it from home to the Oregon-California border to meet Aaron and Richard. During the week, we took half-day turns at the wheel.

THU 2014-06-26 :: Oakland-Grants Pass by car

After final packing and coffee, Helen and I got on the road mid morning, en route to our play days in Vancouver and my solo start.

We made a speed run up Hwy 5 through Northern California and the State of Jefferson to Grants Pass OR. We enjoyed a decent dinner at The Twisted Cork and a pretty nice stay at the Redwood Hyperion Suites.

FRI 2014-06-27 :: Grants Pass-Olympia by car

After coffee for Helen at BlueStone in Grants Pass, we got on the road to Seattle. We would have made it, but for the rain and the car that rear-ended us outside Curtin OR. Low speed and low impact, but what with the state trooper and paramedic call, we were delayed more than an hour. There was very little damage to the Highlander, since the woman's little Accord dove under the tow receiver and bar.

(Unfortunately, she was taken for medical evaluation, so we hope she is OK.) Fortunately, there was no damage to the Serotta. Before this trip, I sold my tail rack and installed a roof rack. With the old rack, the bike would have been bent, and the tour ended before it started.

After the delay, we rolled into Eugene for a quick tour of the inner solar system model at Alton Baker Park (see the description and photos from last year's tour), followed by an excellent lunch at Rye on 3rd.

Then back on the road, frustrated by stop-and-occasional-go from south of Portland until the Interstate Bridge, which cost another two hours. To add insult, it rained on-and-off through central Washington, with occasional serious downpours. We'd had enough, but wanted to find a large enough city for serious food. Settled on Olympia, as the cloud cover cleared and the sun warmed us. The day was rescued with another serendipitous meal at Ristorante Basilico in Olympia. Very traditional; it reminded us of Chef Claudio at the cooking school last month.

SAT 2014-06-28 :: Olympia-Vancouver by car

Coffee at Starbucks, and an early start from Olympia. We made an easy drive to the international border, then waited 30 minutes in line to cross into BC. When we told the border guard that we were staying at the Sylvia Hotel in West End, he smiled, said "nice place" and waved us through.

After a cloud-covered morning, we survived an hour of tropical deluge from the outskirts of Vancouver all the way to the hotel. The bike was soaked, and our nerves a little frayed, but the drive was otherwise uneventful. Tended to the bike as best I could with paper towels and a hair dryer. It will dry in the hotel storage room over the next few days, and I'll lube everything before I ride.

We walked along the seawall to the Tea House in Stanley Park for a quick lunch salad and a fine Stanley Park Pilsner. After a longer walk around the Stanley Park Lost Lagoon, we enjoyed an excellent sushi/sashimi feast at Minami, with a well-matched Le Vieux Pin rosé.

Weather is expected to clear in time for my tour. Fingers crossed.

SUN 2014-06-29 :: Vancouver play day 1

Coffee at Starbucks around the corner; they're everywhere. On the way, walked by A-maze-ing Laughter by Yue Minjun, installed in 2009.

We walked by it several times a day. Always a pleasure and a chuckle.

Then to Vancouver Aquarium. It's not quite up to Monterey Bay Aquarium standards, but still quite enjoyable. There are whiteside dolphins and sea lions and a beluga whale, which Monterey does not boast. Also jellyfish, tropicals, and the usual suspects. And this sculpture outside the newly designed entrance.

Lunch at Stanley Park Bar and Grill, with accompaniment from rehearsals for Shrek the Musical at Maklin Bowl, then a visit to the First Nations totem poles.

After ducking the late afternoon rain for a while, we walked back around the park. Finally, we foraged for dinner at Forage; very good small plates with a nice Cedar Creek Pinot and a tasty chocolate créme brulée.

MON 2014-06-30 :: Vancouver play day 2

After coffee at Starbucks, we rented city bikes to cruise around Stanley Park. Made a quick stop at the Brockton Point lighthouse.

Then along the seawall trail to Kitsilano Beach and return: 30+ km. At a water park along the route, we found a kiddie dryer. Push the large red button, and streams of air make big fun.

Good sandwich-and-salad lunch at Terra Breads False Creek Café. These birds were outside, enforcing the anti-litter ordinance. Very effective, I should think.

Returned the bikes, and asked the mechanic to check out the Serotta. All OK. Shared excellent tapas at The Sardine Can, washed down with a decent Bojandas Rioja Reserva 2008. Lively street action in the Gas Town district; like the Mission in SF.

TUE 2014-07-01 :: Vancouver play day 3, Canada Day

After the usual Starbucks stop, we motored to the UBC Anthropology Museum. Great tours with a very knowledgeable docent -- highly recommended. Housed in a beautiful building, styled to evoke native big houses, with an stunning collection of Haida, Kwakwaka'wakw, and other First Nations objects. The Raven and the First Men by Haidi artist Bill Reid is alone worth the trip. It is featured in a signature rotunda devoted entirely to Bill's work. According to Haida legend, the trickster Raven coaxed the primal creatures to leave the clamshell to join his world and keep him company. They became the first Haida.

Another work that caught my fancy: a thunderbird ceremonial costume used in dance, by Calvin Hunt, a reknowned Kwakwaka'wakw carver. It looks to weigh about 60 pounds.

We grabbed a quick lunch at Beyond Bread, followed by a walk in Jericho Park, then back to the hotel to prepare for launch of the solo tour tomorrow.

Topped off the day with another fine dinner at Minami. Decided to skip the Canada Day fireworks across town, in favor of extended tour preparation.

WED 2014-07-02 :: Vancouver-Ferndale 79.5mi 3589ft

Ate a quick breakfast and got on the road. Cruised over Burrard Bridge, around the UBC campus, over the Alex Fraser Bridge, to the international border. Made the mistake of crossing to the pedestrian line (they probably don't allow bikes in the vehicle lane, but next time I'll try). The line was a dozen deep, and only one agent was slowly moving through the queue. After nearly an hour, I was approved for entry and crossed into Blaine, then around Drayton Harbor, Birch Point, and Birch Bay. Found pretty views over the waterways and through the farmland of southwest BC and northwest Washington. Not as much fun traversing the industrial areas. Moderate headwinds from the south most of the day. Got lost briefly, with the tricky turns running up river to the Alex Fraser Bridge; otherwise, an uneventful day. Laundry done, dinner at D****s: chicken Caesar salad.

THU 2014-07-03 :: Ferndale-Arlington 84.9mi 3041ft

Ate a quick breakfast and got on the road. Made a speed run to Bellingham, then around Bellingham Bay and along Chuckanut Dr around Chuckanut Bay, Wildcat Cove, and Samish Bay -- spectacular water and forest scenery.

Then the longer cruise through the farms and dairies on Skagit and Snohomish counties. Laundry done, dinner at a nondescript steak house. Ordered a salmon fillet and baked potato, and thought jealously about Helen's dinner with our friends in Seattle, which was a fresh salmon fillet from City Fish at Pike Place Market. Drowned my sorrows in a couple of glasses of Lagunitas IPA.

Extra adventure #1: In Bow (mile 25), realized that my helmut was on the counter at Fairhaven Bike (mile 11). There was considerable climbing between the two, so going back didn't seem a reasonable option, and due to the holiday tomorrow, overnight shipping to Seattle -- where I am meeting Helen and friends for dinner -- also wasn't an option. So shipped it home. Fortunately, there was an extra helmet in the car, so 50 miles today without, and 75 miles tomorrow without. Careful, careful, careful.

Extra adventure #2: At the top of Reservation Rd (mile 43), a kindly motorist told me that the Rainbow Bridge to La Conner (mile 46) was closed, due to pieces of it falling into the river. Unfortunately, there are only two ways onto Fidalgo Island, so had to detour back over the Twin Bridges and down the La Conner-Whitney Rd, adding 10 miles to the day. Later inspection revealed no damage to the bridge, and it was reopened, but too late for me.

FRI 2014-07-04 :: Arlington-Seattle, Fourth of July 67.6mi 2602ft

Got on the road early, to try to beat the holiday crowds. Cruised secondary roads and bike paths along the Snohomish River and around Sammamish Lake. Very pretty vistas of the rivers and forests. Lots of gorgeous vacation cabins, most larger than our homes, and some with helicopter pads.

After the lake, crossed Mercer Island Bridge (bridges have bike paths here) into Seattle, to meet friends Patricia and Wayne Smith, where Helen stayed for a few days. We shared a very good dinner of Mediterranean meze at Lola (Tom Douglas owns fifteen restaurants in Seattle, many within a few blocks downtown).

After dinner, Helen and I drove to the Alki Sunshine B&B in W Seattle, with the intention of watching the Bainbridge fireworks. Fell asleep. Heard the booms, but didn't get up. Sleep.

SAT 2014-07-05 :: Seattle-Olympia 70.8mi 4091ft

After a nice breakfast at the Alki Sunshine B&B, and armed with a helmet, got on the road around the sound through White Center, Burien, and Des Moines, mostly on Marine View Dr in various incarnations. Apparently, the marine views are for the home owners, rather than passersby on the streets. But a very pretty stop in Redondo Beach, which is sort of South Des Moines, with piers and views all around the sound. There are sunked treasures off the beach, for SCUBA divers.

That sequed to a lengthy slog through the industrial areas of Fife and Tacoma; Commencement Bay is a large container port. Finally got back on country roads for a bit through Lakewood, then through semi-industrial Lacey and into Olympia (just over the border with Lacey). Laundry. Dinner at the South Sound BBQ Festival, half mile walk from the hotel (and back). Baby back ribs and beer.

SUN 2014-07-06 :: Olympia-Quilcene 77.8mi 3898ft

OK. Most coastal trekkers take the ferry and skip Seattle/Tacoma, but I wanted to see our friends in Seattle. Today was the first E-ticket ride. 13 miles on Woodland Trail out of Olympia, a park-like greenbelt. Rabbits and deer and birds. Then onto US-101, a four-lane road with adequate shoulder and not as much traffic as anticipated. After Shelton, it dropped to two-lane road, with 18- to 24- inch shoulder. All the way, Hood Canal and beaches and parks to the right; and mountain forest to the left.

Briefly, considered packing it in and just staying in a well-located retirement community; maybe next year. After Brinnon, the gentler rollers became longer and steeper, culminating in 3 miles to Walker Pass, averaging 5% with 9% ramps. Then a long shallow descent into Quilcene.

At the recommendation of the Mt Walker Inn owner, dined at Twana's Roadhouse: a decent clam pasta and local microbrew.

MON 2014-07-07 :: Quilcene, rest day

In an effort to stay off the bike for a day, walked a few miles to the harbor, and discovered Coast Seafoods, which is the largest shellfish hatchery in the world, and the major employer in the area. They produce larvae for a range of oyster and clam species, and grow their own algae strains, to feed the larvae. Without much convincing, they gave me a tour.

The oysters continue life here, and in the many wholesalers who work these larvae. The mussels grow in Eureka CA, and the Manila clams in Kona HI.

On the way back, found this socio-political commentary rusting away in the weeds.

Dinner at Twana's Roadhouse again.

TUE 2014-07-08 :: Quilcene-Port Angeles 60.7mi 2690ft

The tour leader at Coast was born, raised, and still lives in Chimacum, a tiny community on the way to Port Townsend. She warned that road construction was making life miserable on Hwy 20, so decided to skip Port Townsend and head directly to Sequim (pronounced "skwim"). After a short run up to Discovery Bay, stayed on Hwy 101 around the west shore to Sequim. Just into town, stopped at All Around Bikes (formerly Mike's Bikes, but trademark issues).

Mike Wanner is a former racer, a darned good tech, and owner of the shop. He made a few checks and tweaks on the bike (the "Coffee Service") and we chatted about my tour. There was a friendly difference of opinion about whether I would encounter rain, which is common in the Olympic rain forests. Mike's opinion was cogently expressed by "Do you know where you are?" I admitted that I did, and that it wouldn't dare, but agreed to purchase a small bottle of chain oil as insurance. (Spoiler alert: Never saw rain in Washington. There was a brief mist on the morning of day 11, in Oregon.)

From the bike shop, rode out to Dungeness Spit. The spit is a national wildlife reserve, so no bikes are allowed on the trail, which is 5.5 miles out to the lighthouse, one way. Didn't feel like walking that far, so decided to push on to Port Angeles, which will shorten tomorrow's ride by 15 miles. After starting the laundry in town, enjoyed an excellent late lunch at Kokopelli Grill: Dungeness crabcakes; wilted spinach salad with feta, cranberries, and a perfect egg; and a decent Viognier 2012 "The Crusher".

From the motel, could see Mt Rainer, 117 miles distant. (In Seattle, the applaud a rare clear day with "The mountain is out.")

Then watched Germany demolish Brazil in the Copa Mondial, and went back to Kokopelli for clams and mussels, and salmon fettucini with more of The Crusher.

WED 2014-07-09 :: Port Angeles-Forks 67.5mi 3766ft

Started out of town on the bunny trail (ok, the Olympic Discovery trail, but there were rabbits everywhere) through parkland into a modest headwind.

Then the road turned inland into the rainforest, 80 degrees F and cloudless blue skies. After the turn into Hwy 113-S, there were three miles of 5% average -- but too much 9% -- to reach the plateau with overall gain of 600', then 20 miles of rollers into another modest headwind, with overall 440' drop into Forks. Started the laundry, then watched the second half of Netherlands-Argentina. Dislike penalty shoot-out tie-breakers.

THU 2014-07-10 :: Forks-Amanda Park 64.9mi 2651ft

The weather started out cool and overcast. But made it through the Hoh and Queets rain forests, without a drop of rain. There was an amusing sign at the Hoh Rainforst turnoff. Note the small insert.

On the advice of some other guests, Stopped at Ruby Beach to admire the monumental sea stacks.

As the road turned inland, the weather changed to mostly clear and warm. The road got a bit dicey from mile 47, with ten miles of new chip-seal; very tough on the saddle.

Quinault River Inn is wonderful, a well-managed oasis in the middle of nowhere. It's managed by a former Specialized guy, who understands the needs of wandering cyclists: an extra towel under the sink, designated for those "dirty jobs" like cleaning the wheels so the carpets stay clean; a floor pump with gauge; use of the laundry off-hours, to wash kit. Plus croquet on the lawn, a beautiful river view, and the lake a short walk away. And energy bars and Rice Krispie treats at the front desk (one per guest, please).

The point where the inn is located was originally a transfer station for logging operations. Logs were floated down the N Quinault into the lake, and loaded on trucks for the sawmills. In the distance were more mountains I avoided climbing over.

Food was adequate at the café next door.

FRI 2014-07-11 :: Amanda Park-Grayland 90.9mi 2667ft

It was foggy on the river in the morning, but cleared less than a mile up the road, as the road led inland. Humptulips is just a crossroads, with a few houses and a post office. In Tom Robbins Another Roadside Attraction, a great counterculture book from the early '70s, it was the base of the assassin monks. (The name actually refers to a local First Nations tribe.) There is a modest hump out of town, but no tulips. Cruised through the Quinault forest, then seaside again in Ocean City, inland again through Hoquiam and outskirts of Aberdeen.

Preparing for the Oregon lighthouses, Took a detour to the Grays Harbor lighthouse in Westport. It is the tallest lighthouse in Washington, a working third-order Fresnel lens designed and built by Henry-Lepaute in 1895, and put into service in 1898.

After the tour, followed the fog bank to Grayland.

There was a kite extravaganza scheduled for the weekend, so all motel reservations were for two nights. But the fog made the festival a washout, and decided to try to take the rest day in Astoria rather than Grayland. The motel was decidedly downscale but quiet, and she allowed me to skip on the second night. So all good. Dinner at Bennett's was plentiful but pretty good: Dungeness crab cakes and salad. Leftover crab cake for breakfast; yum!

SAT 2014-07-12 :: Grayland-Astoria 84.8mi 2438ft

After sucking down a crab cake, got out early into pea soup fog on the coast. It was my first day needing a rain shell, although it was mostly for warmth. The temperature improved enough to shed the shell in Raymond, where this guy was one of around a hundred public art steel sculptures.

That was followed by long, pretty stretches along the Willapa River and the peninsula, including a large island in the middle of the bay. Then there is the inevitable clearcut section.

Fort Columbia is the old large gun placement on the mouth of the river. It's now a park, sort of like Fort Cronkite in Marin. Around the corner, got my first sighting of the Astoria-Megler Bridge, near to the end of the Washington tour. The big bump is in the distance, nearly four miles away. Large container ships, bound to and from Portland, have to pass under the bump.

Aaron and Susan arrived shortly after I found my room and cleaned up. They strolled into town along the Riverwalk, while I scrambled for some food to refuel. The Maritime Memorial is centrally located on the waterfront, just under the bridge and facing the mostly disappeared wharves, dedicated to locals connected to the fishing and canning industries. There are hundreds of marble memorial plaques. For those disinclined to walk the path, a trolley runs in parallel.

Then we had a good dinner at Bridge Water Bistro. It is built on the site of one of the old canneries that, along with timber, were the major industry in Astoria.

SUN 2014-07-13 :: Astoria, rest day

After breakfast, Susan left to drive back to Guerneville, straight through. Aaron and I watched the TdF and FIFA Cup, lazed around, and visited the Lightship Columbia and the Columbia River Maritime Museum. It was closing time, but we snooped around the atrium. Among many other artifacts of the era, there is an Oakland-made Atlas-Imperial three-cylinder diesel engine from the seiner Argo.

We dined at Fulio's and prepared our gear to roll in the morning.

MON 2014-07-14 :: Astoria-Oceanside, Bastille Day 77.9mi 4350ft

Out with Aaron into a cool and damp morning. Aaron called it rain; I thought of it as light mist. The first part of the course took us over the west bridge toward Gearhart and Seaside. There was more traffic than expected, and not always adequate shoulders, but we persevered. Aaron got two flats about fifteen minutes apart, due to a lot of junk on the road. We swung through Cannon Beach, and located a bike shop, but they didn't have road tires that we wanted, and we moved on. We make it through the Arch Cape tunnel, then up to the Oswald West memorial. As governor, West presided over the designation of the Oregon coast as a conservation area. Temperatures warmed into the high 60s. The vistas were very pretty.

The route led around Nehalem Bay, crossed the Miami River and to the Cape Meares lighthouse. Big hill, with a 40 mph cross wind down to the light and back up to the gate.

We ended the day at Three Arch Inn. It was a very well-furnished housekeeping suite. They let us use the laundry between their own loads. Views of the pretty beach and (of course) the three huge rocks that, from a different angle up or down the coast, are arches. Dinner at Roseanna's Café, overlooking the bay and the three arches.

TUE 2014-07-15 :: Oceanside-Newport 74.7mi 5246ft

Foggy mornings are the rule on the coast, and today was no exception. But the seacoast is beautiful in the fog, and the temperatures are nice for riding. Boiler Bay is something like Pt Joe south of Monterey -- currents meeting in a roiling cove -- but it's really named for the boiler of the wrecked J Marhoffer, which is visible at low tide.

We rolled into Newport, checked out the bike shop, and into the motel. Dinner at Zack's Bistro. Excellent crab cakes and fish and salads.

WED 2014-07-16 :: Newport-Winchester Bay 75.1mi 3747ft

Last year's group will remember the turnoff to the Alsea Hwy and Philomath and Corvallis. And Deane's Oceanfront Lodge, the launch site for our Cross-Oregon tour,

Aaron and I rode past Yachats River Rd and Cape Perpetua -- ask Amy and Scott about last year's pre-ride. I'm in no hurry to see that much gravel again.

Keeping with this year's theme, we looked back on Hecata Head lighthouse and continued into Florence. Still searching for a well-stocked bike shop, we found Bicycle 101, sort of a "bike shop and puppet show" per Aaron. (There is a cultural reference in there somewhere.) Once again, insufficient tire inventory.

We finished in Winchester Bay, with a decent room at Salmon Harbor Landing motel, and enjoyed an unexpectedly good dinner at Griff's, a local fried fish emporium. Light batter, not oily, good sides.

THU 2014-07-17 :: Winchester Bay-Port Orford 83.8mi 4692ft

Aaron and I watched the TdF, then hit on the road under blue skies. We rode through North Bend, skirted Coos Bay into Charleston, then attacked the Seven Devils Rd. Good practice for Mt Tam's Seven Sisters in a week. Then a pleasant descent toward Bandon. We turned the corner into a pretty strong cross-wind. Aaron tried to call for assistance, but no answer. We stopped for muffins and caffeine, A town councilman and Her Honor the Mayor were at a table, discussing a recent newspaper headine they didn't like. We chatted for a while, amused by local politics. (Among other things, they discussed getting someone to buy the newspaper, to rid themselves of the nuisance.) Coquille River lighthouse was across the river, noted in passing.

From there, we followed the cliff around the point, with views of pretty beaches and sea spires. Note the people on the beaches, for scale.

Finally, we skirted back to Hwy 101, through the small towns of Langlois, Denmark, and Sixes. We rolled into Port Orford, clear and sunny with a tail wind, which pushed us up the hill to the Castaway by the Sea. Our room was upgraded to a suite overlooking the sourth coast, beach, and harbor. The harbor isn't protected, so the entire fishing fleet is pulled from the water every afternoon, and put back in the water early every morning.

While walking around, we discovered Bike Pharm a new, and small, local bike shop. The guy is a surfer and bike tech, who grew up in Redmond OR, and decided it was too big (and perhaps a little far from the ocean). He fixes old bikes he buys or finds, and sells them. Around the corner, evidence of a record store.

Excellent salmon dinner at Redfish, with a good Sokol Blosser Evolution#9.

The next day, we learned that the locals call the town "Port Awful" because it's frequently socked in with fog. Not so for us. Delightful.

FRI 2014-07-18 :: Port Orford-Brookings 58.5mi 3468ft

We started down the road in warm sunshine, south on Hwy-101. Big lizards at Prehistoric Gardens park -- another roadside attraction. Then big rollers and beautiful coast. We picked up Trevor from Lebanon OR, north of Gold Beach and pulled hard for a while into town. (We passed near Lebanon on day 2 of last year's tour.) It turned out he was meeting his parent for lunch, so we left him in Gold Beach.

Fog set in south of Pistol River. It was cold by the time we made Brookings.

We reached the end of the Oregon tour. Aaron and Richard happy and tired. I shipped the satellite phone, and rolled into the Ocean Suites. Passable pasta dinner at Sebastian's. It was full American portions, so we had leftovers for lunch the next day. And there were two days of laundry.

At 23:00, Stevan Reese arrived with bikes and gear. The motel kindly lent us a storage locker, pending arrival of the posse on Saturday.

SAT 2014-07-19 :: Brookings, rest/prep day

The remains of the Pelican Bay lighthouse were down the harbor from the motel. It is privately owned, incorporated into a home.

Midmorning, Aaron and I walked to Bakery by the Sea, enjoyed a cheese/ham roll, and made arrangements to purchase bread for the California tour. On the way back, we visited the car show, the tail-end of the annual Brookings Car Show; the main event was the previous weekend. In the afternoon, I walked around the harbor to the Southern Oregon Kite Festival, a two day celebration in Brookings. The kites and the flying were fantastic, but I left my camera (i.e., phone) at the motel. Aaron took a nap.

Bikes cleaned and lubed. I removed the aero bars, tail rack, and panniers; Aaron removed the panniers and rack. We will go much faster now.

The posse arrived late afternoon. We shared a very good dinner at Art Alley Grille, caught up with everyone, and reviewed the tour plan and expectations.

Ready to roll into California.

click image for larger version >>				<< click image for larger version
	Vancouver-Astoria	Astoria-Brookings	Brookings-San Francisco


part of the farm	algae farm	mating farm	feed lot


fog on the river	home of the assassin monks	near Ocean City	Hoquiam


let there be light	H-L plaque	the lens	spiral ladder, 135 steps


T Rex	another beach	Aaron real ...	... happy


Note by Yue Minjun: MAY THIS SCULPTURE INSPIRE LAUGHTER PLAYFULNESS AND JOY IN ALL WHO EXPERIENCE IT


The Raven and the First Men	The Raven and the First Men [photo by Helen]


the other Redondo Beach, south	and north	SCUBA divers at Redondo Beach


S Quinault River	Lake Quinault, old pilings	Lake Quinault, mountains


Fort Columbia barracks	Astoria-Megler Bridge, long view	Astoria-Megler Bridge, closer


Lightship Columbia	Atlas-Imperial diesel	manufacturer's plaque


Oswald West memorial	south along the coast [photo by Aaron]	Cape Mears lighthouse	three arches


more pretty ocean view [photo by Aaron]	turnoff to Alsea Hwy	Deane's Oceanfront Lodge


Mercury	local star	Rye


good cop	bad cop


beauty	beauty	and the beast